This weekend, March 13 and 14, we will all be setting our clocks to Daylight Saving Time. The time change is a good reminder to check your smoke alarms. According to the National Fire Protection Association, more than 66 percent of home fire deaths that occurred between 2003-2006 were in homes without a working smoke alarm. A working smoke alarm significantly increases your chances of surviving a deadly home fire.

A properly installed and maintained smoke alarm is the only thing in your home that can alert you and your family to a fire 24 hours a day, seven days a week. Whether you’re awake or asleep, a working smoke alarm is constantly on alert, scanning the air for fire and smoke. Smoke alarms must be maintained! A smoke alarm with a dead or missing battery is the same as having no smoke alarm at all, so test your smoke alarm monthly by pushing the “test” button, if it has one.

Smoke alarms are powered by either a battery or are hardwired into your home’s electrical system. Hardwired smoke alarms are usually equipped with a backup battery. If your smoke alarm is powered by battery, the battery needs to be replaced annually unless it is a long-life battery (check the owner’s manual). All batteries should be maintained and replaced in accordance with manufacturer’s guidance.

Choose an annual date, such as the time change, when you will remember to maintain your smoke alarm in tip top condition. Check the manufacturer’s expiration date on the label, replace the batteries if needed, and clean dust away from the slots so that smoke can enter freely. All smoke alarms, hard-wired and battery powered, should be replaced every ten years. These simple steps will help ensure that you and your family will have the best chance of surviving if fire should strike.

USFA has a fire safety campaign called Install. Inspect. Protect. which provides information about home smoke alarms and fire sprinklers. Please visit the campaign Web site at www.usfa.dhs.gov/campaigns/smokealarms/.

The National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) estimates that approximately 80 percent of all fire deaths in the United States and Canada occur in the home. Roughly 11 people per day, die in home fires in the U.S. and Canada. Many lives can be saved if people react immediately when a fire alarm sounds. Once a fire starts, there’s no time to develop a plan. The NFPA urges everyone to “Know When to Go.”

In Single Family Homes: If a smoke detector sounds in your home, leave immediately—do not investigate.

When a Smoke Detector Sounds:

• Alert others by shouting, “Fire! Everyone outside!” and leave immediately.
• Test doors with the back of your hand before opening them; if the door is warm, use an alternative escape route.
• Use windows as alternate exits.
• If you must exit through smoke, crawl low, keeping your head 12 to 24 inches (30 to 60 centimeters) above the floor, where the air is cleaner.
• When you are outside, go to your meeting place.
• Call the fire department using a neighbor’s phone, portable phone, or fire alarm box.
• Do not go back inside for any reason.

Know What to Do

• Know at least two ways out of every room.
• Practice your escape plan with an exit drill every six months.
• Pick a meeting place outside your home where everyone can gather once they’ve left the building.
• Keep exit paths clear of furniture and clutter.
• Make sure the number of your home is clearly visible from the street.

Special Situations

If possible, older adults and people with mobility disabilities should sleep on the ground floor.

Make special plans for anyone who may need assistance escaping.

Let you fire department know whether your household includes someone who may have difficulty escaping a fire.

In High-Rise Buildings: Consult your building management or fire department and know what to do in advance. In some occupanies, such as high-rise apartment buildings, the safest action when a fire alarm sounds may be to stay inside the dwelling unit and protect yourself from smoke until the fire department arrives. Some building evacuation plans may require you to go to a “safe area” inside the building and wait for the fire department to supervise evacuation.

When a Fire Alarm Sounds: If you can hear instructions over your building’s public address system, do as you are told; you might be told to stay where you are.

If You Stay

• Stay calm and take steps to protect yourself.
• If possible, go to a room with an outside window or balcony and a telephone.
• Close all doors between you and the fire. Stuff the cracks around your door with towels, rags, or duct tape and cover vents to keep smoke out of the room.
• If there is a phone in the room, call the fire department even if you see fire trucks, and report your exact location.
• Wait at a window and signal for help using a flash light or by waving a sheet or light-colored cloth.
• If possible, open the window at the top and bottom, but do not break the window.
• Be ready to close the window quickly if smoke rushes in.
• Be patient. Rescuing all the occupants of a high-rise building can take several hours.

If You Go

Follow your building’s evacuation plans exactly unless there is immediate danger. Proceed cautiously, checking each door you encounter for heat and each corridor of stairwell for smoke. If you encounter smoke or flames at any point, seek an alternative exit route. If none is available, return to your room, protect yourself from smoke, and wait to be rescued.

• Elevators should not be used during a fire.
• If you must exit through smoke, crawl low, under it where the air is cleaner.
• As you exit, close all doors behind you to prevent the spread of smoke or flames.
• Once you are out, do not go back inside; tell the fire department if anyone is trapped inside.

Plan Ahead

• Learn your building’s evacuation plans.
• Be familiar with the sound of the fire alarm.
• Learn the location of pull stations that activate your building’s fire alarm, and how to use them.
• Post emergency numbers near all phones.
• Know at least two escape routes from your apartment or condo, and pick a meeting place outside.
• Learn the fastest route to your building’s fire exits so that you can find them, even in the dark

Reprinted from the NFPA pamphlet “Know When To Go! React Fast To Fire”

USED PROPERLY, a portable fire extinguisher can save lives and property by putting out a small fire or containing it until the fire department arrives.

Portable extinguishers for home use, however, are not designed to fight large or spreading fires. Even against small fires, they are useful only under certain conditions.

The operator must know how to use the extinguisher. There is no time to read directions during an emergency.

• The extinguisher must be within easy reach and in working order, fully charged.
• The operator must have a clear escape route that will not be blocked by fire.
• The extinguisher must match the type of fire being fought. Extinguishers that contain water are unsuitable for use on grease or electrical fires.
• The extinguisher must be large enough to put out the fire. (Many portable
  extinguishers discharge completely in as few as 8 to 10 seconds.)

Choosing Your Extinguisher

FIRE EXTINGUISHERS ARE tested by independent laboratories and labeled for the type and size of fire they can extinguish. Use these labels as a guide to purchase the kind of extinguisher that suits you needs.

Classes of Fires

There are three classes of fire. All fire extinguishers are labeled using standard symbols for the classes of fires they can put out. A red slash through any of the symbols tells you the extinguisher cannot be used on that class of fire. A missing symbol tells you only that the extinguisher has not been tested for a given class of fire.

Class A: Ordinary combustibles such as wood, cloth, and paper.

Class B: Flammable liquids such as gasoline, oil, and oil-based paint.

Class C: Energized electrical equipment – including wiring, fuse boxes, circuit breakers,
and appliances.

The extinguisher must be appropriate for the type of fire being fought. If you use the wrong type of extinguisher, you can endanger yourself and make the fire worse.

Multipurpose fire extinguishers marked ABC may be used on all three classes of fires.

Remember, in some cases it may be dangerous to use any type of extinguisher. For instance, pressurized extinguishing agent could spread a grease pan fire rather than put it out.

Extinguisher Sizes

Portable extinguishers are also rated for the size of fire they can handle. This rating will appear on the label – for example, 2A:10B:C. The larger the numbers, the larger the fire that the extinguisher can put out, but higher-rated models are often heavier. Make sure you can hold and operate the extinguisher before you buy it.

Installation and Maintenance

EXTINGUISHERS SHOULD BE installed in plain view, above the reach of children, near an escape route, and away from stoves and heating appliances.

Extinguishers require routine care. Read you operator’s manual to learn how to inspect your extinguisher. Follow manufacturer’s instructions on maintenance.

Rechargeable models must be serviced after every use. (Service companies are listed in the Yellow Pages under “Fire Extinguishers.”) Disposable fire extinguishers can be used only once and must be replaced after use.

Remember the Pass-Word

KEEP Your back to an unobstructed exit and stand six to eight feet away from the fire.

Follow the four-step PASS procedure.

PULL the pin: This unlocks the operating lever and allows you to discharge the extinguisher. Some extinguishers may have other lever-release mechanisms.

AIM low: Point the extinguisher nozzle (or hose) at the base of the fire.

SQUEEZE the lever above the handle: This discharges the extinguishing agent. Releasing the lever will stop the discharge. (Some extinguishers have a button instead of
a lever.)

SWEEP from side to side: Moving carefully toward the fire, keep the extinguisher aimed at the base of the fire and sweep back and forth until the flames appear to be out. Watch the fire area. If the fire reignites, repeat the process. *Always be sure the fire department inspects the fire site, even if you thing you’ve extinguished the fire.

Should you Fight the Fire?

BEFORE YOU BEGIN to fight a fire:

• Make sure everyone has left, or is leaving, the building.
• Make sure the fire department has been called (dial 911).
• Make sure the fire is confined to a small area and is not spreading.
• Be sure you have an unobstructed escape route to which the fire will not spread.
• Be sure you have read the instructions and that you know how to use the extinguisher.

It is reckless to fight a fire in any other circumstances. Instead, leave immediately and close off the area.

Each year the Mendham Fire Department & First Aid Squad respond to a significant number of fires and medical emergencies caused by electrical malfunction. Every year in the United States, more than 1,000 people are killed and thousands more injured in electrical fire or shock incidents. It is important to know how to use electrical appliances safely and how to recognize electrical hazards.

• The Nature of Electricity
• General Electrical Safety
• Safety With Electrical Appliances
• Electrical Emergencies

The Nature of Electricity

Most homes have two incoming voltages: 120 volts for lighting and appliance circuits and 240 volts for larger air conditioning and electric dryer circuits.

When an appliance switch is turned on, electrical current flows through the wire, completing the electrical “circuit” and causing the appliance to operate. The amount of flowing current is called “amperage.” Most lighting circuits in the home are 15 amp circuits. Most electric dryers and air conditioners require larger 30 amp circuits.

The amount of electrical power needed to make an appliance operate is called “wattage” and is a function of the amount of current flowing through the wire (amperage), and the pressure in the system (voltage).

Mathematically speaking, volts x amps = watts. So, if we have a 120 volt system and a 15 amp current, we can flow a maximum of 120 x 15 or 1,800 watts on a typical lighting or appliance circuit. When too many lights or appliances are attached to the electrical system, it will overload and overheat. This can cause the wire insulation to melt and ignite, resulting in an electrical fire. The amount of electrical current flowing through wire is affected by resistance. This is known as “ohms.” Resistance causes increased heat in the wire. Heat is the byproduct that makes some appliances work, such as an iron, toaster, stove or furnace. Large current faces high resistance when moving through a small wire. This generates lots of heat. That’s how an incandescent light bulb works. Resistance through the light filament causes it to heat up which gives off a bright light. Electrical resistance also is affected by the length of a wire. Operating an electrical hedge clipper with a long extension cord increases resistance and might cause the cord to overheat, melt or ignite. The same occurs if too many strands of Christmas lights are connected together.

The size of electrical wire is dependent upon the amount of current required to operate a particular appliance. Wiring to the air conditioner, electric stove and electric dryer is much larger to handle the increased voltage (240) volts) and amperage (30 amps). Wiring is covered with a protective material called “insulation.”

Electrical circuits in homes are designed so that all components are compatible. The size of the wire, outlets and circuit breakers are designed for an anticipated electrical load. A circuit is said to be overloaded when too much current flows causing heat build up or wiring to break down. When two bare wires touch, a “short circuit” is said to occur. This can lead to sparks and fire. Deteriorated insulation is one of the most frequent causes of short circuits.

A “circuit breaker” or “fuse” is a safety device designed to prevent accidental overloading of electrical circuits. They are set at a specific amperage. When that amperage is exceeded, it trips and shuts off the flow of electricity, stopping the circuit from continued overheating. When a fuse or circuit breaker trips, it is important to find the cause and correct it. Often, people will just reset the breaker or put in larger fuse. NEVER USE OVERSIZED FUSES ON CIRCUIT BREAKERS. NEVER SUBSTITUTE A PENNY OR FOIL-WRAPPED FUSE. This could cause a fire!

General Electrical Safety

When a house is under construction, city inspectors visit to make sure the electrical system is in compliance with the County Building Code and the National Electrical Code. Only licensed electricians are permitted to install electrical systems. During home remodeling, when electrical circuits are added or changed, make sure to use a licensed electrician whose work complies with the electrical code. Add enough outlets in every room to avoid using multiple plugs or extension cords. Use a ground fault interrupter (G.F.I.) on circuits in the bathroom, or outdoors where water or moisture is present. G.F.I. is a type of very sensitive circuit breaker and is required by the Phoenix Construction Code.

When choosing an electrical appliance, be sure it is approved by a safety-testing laboratory. This insures that it has been constructed in accordance with nationally-accepted electrical standards and has been evaluated for safety. Use the appliance only according to manufacturer’s specific instructions.

If you touch an electrical appliance, wall switch or electrical cord while you are wet or standing in water, it will increase the chance of electrical shock.

When using an extension cord, be sure it is designed to carry the intended load. Most cannot carry as much current as permanent wiring and tend to overheat. Do not use an extension cord in place of permanent wiring, especially if a tripping hazard exists or where there is high physical abuse, such as under a carpet. Keep electrical cords away from infants and toddlers and use tamperproof inserts on wall outlets to prevent them from sticking objects into the outlets. The cord must be protected from damage. Do not run it around objects or hang on a nail. Inspect it periodically for worn insulation and overall condition.

Safety with Electrical Appliances

The potential for electrical shock or fire from an electrical appliance is very real, especially when safety recommendations are not followed.

Before buying an appliance, look for the label of a recognized testing laboratory such as Underwriters Laboratory or Factory Mutual.

Keep space heaters, stoves, irons and other heat-producing appliances away from furniture, curtains, bedding or towels. Also, give televisions, stereos and computers plenty of air-space so they won’t overheat.

Never use an appliance with a damaged cord, and be sure to use three-pronged electrical devices in three-pronged outlets. These outlets may not be available in older homes, so use a three-pronged adapter, and screw the tab onto the grounded outlet box cover. Never cut off or bend the grounding pin of the plug. If you have a polarized plug (with one side wider than the other), never file it down or try to make it reversible.

Keep electrical cords out of the path of traffic. If you put cords under carpets or rugs, wires can be damaged and might result in fire.

An electrical cord should never be wrapped around an appliance until the appliance has cooled. Because hair care equipment is often used in bathrooms near sinks and bathtubs, it is extremely important to be especially careful that the appliances do not come in contact with water. If one drops into water, do not touch it until you have pulled the wall plug.

Protect young children by putting plastic inserts in receptacle outlets not in use to keep them from putting anything into outlets.

Never put a kitchen knife or other metal object in a toaster to remove stuck bread or bagels unless it is unplugged and cooled. Install television and radio antennas where they cannot fall across power lines. Use caution when operating a tree-pruning device or using a metal ladder around power lines.

Inspect appliances regularly to make sure they operate properly. If an appliance smells funny when in use, makes unusual sounds or the cord feels warm to touch, repair or replace the unit. Don’t repair it yourself unless you are qualified. Keep appliances in a cool, dry place to prevent rusting.

Electrical Emergencies

When an electrical emergency occurs, there are several survival actions that can be taken. You should know how to trip the main circuit breaker at the electrical panel to turn off all power to the house.

If an appliance smells funny or operates improperly, pull the plug if it can be done safely. If arcing, burning or smoking from an appliance occurs, turn off the power at the circuit breaker and CALL THE FIRE DEPARTMENT.

Winds accompanying thunderstorms may knock down power lines or utility poles. Keep people away from the area, and call the fire department. If power lines come in contact with a vehicle, do not touch it or the vehicle. If people are inside, tell them to stay inside. If they try to exit, they may complete a grounded electrical circuit and be instantly killed. They must stay inside until the power is shut by the utility company.

If a serious electrical malfunction occurs in your home, school or workplace, it is the same as a fire. Notify others, activate the fire alarm and exit promptly. If you are familiar with the operation of a fire extinguisher, you can use only a “Class C” Fire Extinguisher on an electrical fire.

Dear Valued Citizen:

Please take a few moments to complete the self-inspection checklist listed on this page. While some items might not apply to your household, any items you answer "NO" could represent a potential hazard in your home that should be corrected. If you answer "YES" to all of the items, we congratulate you on your personal fire prevention efforts! Thank you for your time and for your interest in fire safety.

Craig Bellamy
Fire Official

Did You Know………

• most fire fatalities and injuries in the U.S. occur in the victim’s own home?
• two-thirds of all home-fire victims die of smoke inhalation, poisonous gases, or lack of oxygen; not severe burns?
• cooking is the leading cause of all residential fires and fire injuries?
• heating equipment is the second leading cause of residential fires?
• more than 40% of fatal home cooking fires occur while the victims are asleep?
• careless use of smoking materials is the leading cause of residential fires that result in death?

Survival Tips

1. Make sure your family has an escape plan. Contact the Fire Prevention office or your neighborhood fire station for more information on developing a plan.
2. Sleep with the bedroom door closed. Closed doors provide protection against heat and smoke.
3. Teach everyone in your household to recognize the sound of your smoke alarm.
4. Test doors before opening them. You can easily be overcome by heat, smoke or flames when you open a door to an area where a fire has spread.
5. Use windows as alternate exits.
6. Crawl low under smoke. During a fire, super heated air and toxic gases fill the room from the top down. This leaves a "safety zone" of breathable air about 12 to 24 inches above the floor.
7. Call 9-1-1. Unless you are trapped inside, it’s too dangerous to call from a burning home. Once you have escaped and reported to your meeting place, call 9-1-1 on a neighbor’s telephone.
8. If your clothes catch on fire: Stop, Drop, and Roll.

Learn Not To Burn! Fire Smart Equals Fire Safe!!!

Fire destroys more property and claims more lives annually than any natural disaster. It is also the most preventable disaster.

Please help us reduce the senseless loss of property and lives in our community by making a conscious effort to maintain a home free of fire hazards. Share this information with relatives and friends. Remember, fire prevention begins with education.

Should you have any questions regarding fire safety, or want more information on any of these topics, please call our Fire Prevention Division at (973) 543-7152

• Make certain your wood stove and heating system are always properly maintained
  and ready for extended use.
  • For wood-burning tips contact your local fireplace dealer.
  • For maintenance of your heating system contact your service person.
  • Protect your water pipes from freezing by planning ahead.
  • Turn off all outside faucets (preferably from an inside shut-off to
    each faucet). If no inside shut-off is provided, wrap the pipe with approved
    (UL) heating tape. You may also turn on any inside faucet, letting water
    drip slightly, allowing for expansion.
  • Make certain that all vents from the crawl space under the house are 
    closed or sealed to keep out cold air.

Note: Should pipes become frozen do not use torches or other
flame-producing equipment.
A hair dryer often will thaw pipes, as will the application of warm water. Pay particular
attention to the north and east sides of the house as they are vulnerable to freezing
due to prevailing winds.

• In the event a broken pipe occurs, plan ahead by locating the main shut-off
  to the house and be prepared with a proper-fitting wrench.
• PLAN AHEAD Broken water pipes need not occur if precautions
  are taken.

The fires resulting from improper installation could be avoided if home owners would just get the required building permit and have the installation inspected. Remember, every solid fuel appliance installation requires a permit, whether inside the city limits or outside. It is the responsibility of the home owner to make sure there is a permit issued. If the installer fails to obtain one, the home owner should see to it.

After the appliance is correctly installed and properly inspected, chimney abuse becomes the danger. Chimney abuse is strictly a user problem. Even the safest installation will cause a fire if the chimney is not properly maintained.

Chimneys fall into two categories; site-built (masonry) and factory-built (metal). Properly made, installed, and maintained, either type will provide many years of safe service. If not properly maintained, either kind becomes a time bomb, waiting for the moment when it will create a disaster.

What is the proper maintenance of a chimney? It begins with carefully selecting the kind of wood you will burn. The harder the wood, the smaller the creosote release into the chimney will be. Then curing that wood becomes important. Wood that is allowed to cure for three to six months after cutting and splitting will yield more heat and less creosote.

Maintaining proper flue temperatures is also a part of good chimney maintenance. Creosote condenses onto cold chimneys while properly heated chimneys will trap much less. So burn an open fire until good flue temperatures are achieved, then make sure the fire burns hot enough to maintain those temperatures.

Any chimney should be thoroughly cleaned at least once a year. Chimneys that get a lot of use will require more frequent cleaning. Remember, soot and creosote buildup in the chimney is what flue fires are made of. Keep it clean, and you have protected yourself from this danger.

As part of this chimney-cleaning process and following any chimney fire, the flue should be carefully inspected inside and out. Specialized equipment is now available which permits detailed internal inspection of the entire flue. This inspection can reveal damage that is not visible from the outside. The yellow pages list a number of companies (under “Chimney Cleaning”) that are equipped to provide this inspection.

Never use a damaged flue. If damage is present, your safety is at risk. Have the problem corrected before using the wood stove again! Remember, your life may depend on it!